Used car buying checklist: from advert to handover
A step by step used car checklist: research before the viewing, the paperwork to see, the test drive, agreeing a price, paying and the handover.
Updated
Buying a used car goes well when you do the checks in order and stop the moment something does not add up. Research the model and the specific car before you travel. Read the paperwork before you drive. Drive before you talk money. Agree the price before you pay, and pay in a way that leaves a record. This checklist walks through each step, from the advert to the handover, and points to a deeper guide for each one.
The short version: if the paperwork, the car and the seller's story do not match, walk away. There is always another car.
Before the viewing
Most bad buys can be spotted from your sofa. Ask the seller for the registration number before you travel. A seller who will not share it is telling you something.
Research the model
- How the model does at its MOT. Our MOT fail rates by model pages show, for the models we cover, how often each one fails at each age, what it fails on and the typical mileage at test, compared with all cars of the same age. A model that fails more often than average at the age you are looking at is not a reason to rule it out, but it tells you where to look.
- What it costs to tax. Use the car tax check to work out the yearly tax from the details on the car's V5C. Our guide to car tax in 2026 explains the bands.
- Where you can drive it. If you live in or drive into a clean air zone or the ULEZ, use the ULEZ checker with the car's fuel type and first registration date before you fall for the car. It gives an estimate, so confirm with the zone operator.
Research the car
- Read the MOT history. The GOV.UK MOT history service shows every test since 2005 in Great Britain, the mileage at each one, the fails and the advisories. Our guide on how to read MOT history shows what to look for. Write down any advisory that keeps coming back.
- Check the tax and MOT status. GOV.UK lets you check whether a car is taxed and when its MOT expires.
- Ask the questions on the phone. How long they have owned it, why they are selling, whether there is finance on it. Our list of questions to ask a seller gives the full set and what a good answer sounds like.
- Run a vehicle history check for outstanding finance, write-off records and stolen markers. These are things the MOT history cannot show.
The paperwork at the viewing
Read the documents before you drive the car. If they are not right, the drive does not matter.
- The V5C logbook. See the original, not a photo. Check the name and address match the seller and the place you are viewing the car. Our guide to the V5C logbook explains what it proves and what it does not. If there is no logbook, read buying a car without a V5C first.
- The VIN. Find the vehicle identification number on the car and check it matches the V5C. Our guide to the VIN number shows where to look.
- The service history. Stamps, invoices and dates. Match the mileages on the invoices against the MOT history. Gaps are worth a question.
- The MOT history. Bring your notes. Look at the parts that kept getting advisories and ask what was done.
- The number of keepers. Our guide to previous owners explains when that number matters and when it does not.
Look over the car
Do this in daylight, on a dry day if you can, and with the engine cold.
- Panel gaps that are uneven, paint that does not match from panel to panel and overspray on rubber seals can mean accident repairs.
- Tyres: check the tread and look for uneven wear on the inside or outside edges, which can point to alignment or suspension problems.
- Look underneath with a torch for fresh oil, corrosion near the sills and around the suspension mounts.
- Check every electrical item: windows, mirrors, lights, wipers, the heater and the air conditioning.
- Open the bonnet and look at the oil level and colour, and the coolant level. Ask to start the car from cold.
The MOT does not test the engine, clutch or gearbox. Our guide to what the MOT does not check lists the gaps you should cover yourself.
The test drive
Before you drive, make sure you are insured. A dealer's trade policy usually covers you, but a private sale usually does not. Our guide to test drive insurance explains the options. The car also needs to be taxed and have a valid MOT to be driven on the road.
Drive for at least 20 minutes on a mix of roads: town traffic, a faster road and a car park. Listen for knocks, feel for pulling under braking and watch the warning lights. Our test drive checklist gives the full list in order.
Agree the price
Decide your maximum before you arrive, and do not move it on the day. Then use the evidence you collected as reasons, not as haggling: a recurring advisory, a cambelt that is due, tyres near the limit, a missing service. Our guide on how to negotiate the price shows how to plan a first offer, a target and a maximum.
If the mileage is high for the car's age, read our guide to high mileage cars before you decide what it is worth.
The example Buying Report shows what this plan looks like for one example car: the verdict, the reasons and the bid plan.
Pay and take the car home
- Pay in a way that leaves a record. A bank transfer to an account in the seller's name is normal. Our guide to paying for a used car compares bank transfer, cash, card and finance.
- Never pay a deposit before you have seen the car.
- Get a written receipt with the date, the price, the registration, the VIN, both names and addresses, and the words "sold as seen" only if you agreed to that.
- Tell DVLA. The seller tells DVLA about the change of keeper, online or on the V5C, and you get the new keeper slip. Our guide to the change of keeper explains each step.
- Tax the car before you drive it away. Vehicle tax does not move with the car. See does car tax transfer.
- Insure the car in your name before you drive it home.
If you are trading in your old car, our guide to part exchange explains how to judge the deal.
Your rights after you buy
Your rights depend on who sold you the car.
| Seller | What the law expects |
|---|---|
| Dealer | Under the Consumer Rights Act 2015 the car must be of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose and as described. Within 30 days you can usually reject a faulty car. |
| Private seller | The car must match its description and the seller must have the right to sell it. There is no satisfactory quality rule. |
The 2015 Act covers sales by traders to consumers. Private sales fall under the Sale of Goods Act 1979. That is why the checks before you pay matter more in a private sale. Whoever sells it, see the car and ask a mechanic before you hand over the money.
Frequently asked questions
What should I check when buying a used car?
The MOT history, the V5C logbook against the seller and the car, the VIN, the service history, a history check for finance and write-offs, and a test drive of at least 20 minutes. If any of those do not match the seller's story, walk away.
What documents should come with a used car?
The V5C logbook, the service history with invoices, and any receipts for recent work. The MOT history is held online by DVSA, so you can read it yourself with the registration number.
Do I have the same rights buying privately as from a dealer?
No. A dealer sale is covered by the Consumer Rights Act 2015, so the car must be of satisfactory quality. A private sale only has to match its description, and the seller must have the right to sell it.
Should I get a mechanic to inspect a used car?
Yes, if you are not confident checking a car yourself or the price is a large sum for you. A mechanic can see things a test drive will not show, such as corrosion underneath and leaks. Ask for the inspection before you agree the price.