Test driving a used car: what to check on the road

A test drive is where the car tells you what the paperwork cannot. Start it from cold, watch the warning lights, and drive for at least 20 minutes on a mix of roads: town traffic, a faster road and a car park. Listen more than you talk. If something feels wrong, say so, and do not let the seller explain it away on the spot. Write it down and ask a mechanic.

Before any of this, make sure you are allowed to drive the car. You need to be insured, and the car needs to be taxed and have a valid MOT.

Before you set off

Check you can legally drive it

• Insurance. A dealer's motor trade policy usually covers a test drive. In a private sale it usually does not, and many personal policies no longer let you drive other cars. Our guide to test drive insurance explains the options.
• Tax. The car must be taxed to be driven on the road. Tax does not move to a new keeper, but during the test drive the seller is still the keeper, so their tax still applies.
• MOT. A car that needs an MOT and does not have a valid one can only be driven to a pre-arranged MOT test or to or from somewhere it is being repaired. If the MOT has expired, you cannot take it for a normal test drive. See our guide to driving without an MOT.
• Your licence. A dealer may ask to see it, and may ask for a check code from the GOV.UK view your driving licence service.

Ask for a cold start

Ask the seller not to run the car before you arrive. Put your hand on the bonnet when you get there. A warm engine can hide starting problems, smoke and noises that only appear from cold.

When you turn the key or press start:

• Warning lights should all come on for a moment and then go out. A light that never comes on at all may have had its bulb removed or been disconnected.
• Listen for rattles in the first few seconds. A brief rattle that goes away can still point to a problem with the timing chain or tensioner on some engines. Ask a mechanic.
• Look at the exhaust. A little white vapour on a cold day is normal and clears quickly. Blue smoke can mean the engine burns oil. Thick white smoke that does not clear can mean coolant is getting into the engine. Black smoke on a diesel under hard acceleration can mean an injector or turbo problem.

Adjust the seating position and mirrors and find the controls before you move. The Highway Code expects you to be able to reach the controls and see clearly before you set off.

On the road: what to check

Clutch and gears (manual)

• The clutch should bite smoothly and not right at the top of the pedal travel. A bite point very high up can mean a worn clutch.
• In a higher gear at low speed, press the accelerator firmly. If the revs rise but the car does not speed up, the clutch may be slipping.
• Every gear, including reverse, should go in without grinding or crunching.
• Judder when pulling away, or a knock or rattle at idle that changes when you press the clutch, can point to the clutch or a dual-mass flywheel. These are costly to replace, so ask a mechanic.

Automatic gearbox

• Changes should be smooth, without a long pause, a jolt or flaring revs.
• Select drive and reverse from rest. A heavy clunk is worth a question.

Brakes

• On a quiet, straight road, brake firmly from a moderate speed. The car should stop in a straight line.
• Pulling to one side can mean a sticking caliper or uneven wear.
• A pulsing pedal can mean warped discs. Grinding can mean the pads are worn down to the metal.
• Test the parking brake on a slope.

Steering and suspension

• The steering wheel should be straight when you drive straight, and the car should not drift.
• Listen for knocks over speed bumps and potholes. They can point to worn suspension parts, which often appear as MOT advisories first.
• In a car park, turn the wheel to full lock both ways at low speed. Clicking or groaning can mean worn driveshaft joints or a steering problem.
• Wobble through the steering at speed can mean a wheel balance problem or worn parts.

Engine and dashboard

• The temperature gauge should rise to the normal position and stay there.
• No warning light should come on during the drive. If one does, note which one and ask.
• Acceleration should be smooth, without hesitation or flat spots.

Heater, air conditioning and electrics

• Run the air conditioning on cold. It should blow clearly cold within a few minutes. Repairs can be expensive.
• Check the heater, the demister, the rear screen heater, the windows, the wipers and every light.
• Check the infotainment, the parking sensors and the camera if the car has them.

The route to take

Plan a route of at least 20 minutes that covers:

Drive within the speed limits and the Highway Code as normal. The seller is trusting you with their car, and you learn nothing extra by driving hard.

After the drive

• With the engine running, look underneath and around the engine bay for fresh drips.
• Check the dashboard again for warning lights.
• Compare what you noticed with the MOT history and the seller's answers. A knock on the test drive and a suspension advisory on the last two MOTs is the same story told twice.

The MOT does not test the clutch, gearbox or engine condition. Our guide to what the MOT does not check covers the rest. Anything you find on the drive becomes evidence for the price conversation. Our guide on how to negotiate the price shows how to use it, and our used car buying checklist puts the test drive in order with the other steps.

Frequently asked questions

How long should a used car test drive be?

At least 20 minutes, long enough for the engine to reach its normal temperature, on a mix of town roads, a faster road and somewhere to park.

Can I test drive a car with no MOT?

Not on a normal test drive. A car that needs an MOT and has none can only be driven to a pre-arranged MOT test or to or from somewhere it is being repaired.

What should I listen for on a test drive?

Rattles on a cold start, knocks over bumps, grinding when changing gear or braking, and clicking on full steering lock. Each one is a question for the seller and a reason to ask a mechanic.

Do I need my own insurance to test drive a used car?

From a dealer, usually not, because their motor trade policy covers you. In a private sale, usually yes. See our guide to test drive insurance.