Is a high mileage car worth buying?
When a high mileage used car is a good buy: judging miles against age and use, the parts that wear with mileage, and checking the mileage pattern in the MOT history.
Updated
A high mileage car can be a good buy if the miles were easy, the maintenance was done on time and the price reflects what is due next. The odometer number matters less than three things: how the miles were driven, what has been replaced and whether the mileage pattern in the MOT history is consistent. A car with high, steady motorway miles and a folder of invoices can be in better shape than a low mileage car that did short trips and missed its services.
What counts as high mileage
There is no fixed number. Mileage only means something against the car's age and against cars like it.
Our MOT fail rates by model pages show the median mileage at each age for each model we cover, from DVSA's anonymised MOT data, alongside the fail rate at that age and the figure for all cars. Use them to see whether the car you are looking at has done more or fewer miles than is typical for its model and age, and how often that model fails at that age. The DfT's road traffic statistics describe how far cars are driven across Great Britain, and its National Travel Survey covers how people in England travel.
A car well above the typical mileage for its age is not a bad car. It is a car where the mileage-driven parts are closer to replacement, and that should show in the price.
How the miles were driven matters
The same mileage can mean very different wear.
| Mostly long, steady journeys | Mostly short trips and town driving |
|---|---|
| Engine runs at full temperature, so less condensation and sludge | Engine often runs cold, so oil degrades faster |
| Few gear changes and clutch starts per mile | Many clutch starts, gear changes and brake applications per mile |
| Steady speeds, little braking | Heavy brake and suspension use over speed bumps and potholes |
| Diesel particulate filters can regenerate | Diesel particulate filters can block on cars that rarely get a long run |
Ask the seller how the car was used: commuting on the motorway, a sales rep's car, school runs or a weekend car. Then check the answer against the evidence. Long-distance use often shows in the service record as frequent services close together in time.
The parts that wear with mileage
Some parts wear with miles rather than years. On a high mileage car, ask what has been replaced and look for invoices.
- Clutch and flywheel. Wear depends heavily on how the car was driven. Town driving and towing wear them faster. A high bite point, slipping under load or judder when pulling away are signs. A dual-mass flywheel, fitted to many manual diesels and some petrol cars, can be costly to replace.
- Suspension. Shock absorbers, springs, arms and bushes wear with use. Worn parts often appear as MOT advisories before they fail.
- Cambelt. On engines with a cambelt, the maker sets a change interval in miles and years, whichever comes first. A high mileage car may have needed one or more changes already. Ask for the invoice for each one.
- Brakes. Discs and pads wear with miles, faster in town. Check the MOT history for brake advisories.
- Tyres. Check the tread and look for uneven wear.
- Turbo, injectors and particulate filter on diesel cars, especially those used for short trips.
The MOT does not test the clutch, gearbox or engine condition. Our guide to what the MOT does not check covers what you need to look at yourself, and our test drive checklist shows how to spot clutch, suspension and brake wear on the road.
Check the mileage pattern in the MOT history
The GOV.UK MOT history service records the mileage at each test. On a high mileage car this is your main way to confirm the figure is genuine.
- List the readings in date order. They should only go up.
- Look at the yearly gaps. A steady figure each year fits a consistent use. A big change can mean a new owner or a new job, which is fine if the story fits.
- Look for a reading lower than the one before. It needs an explanation: a tester's typing error, a replaced instrument cluster with an invoice, or something worse. Ask for proof.
- Compare the last MOT reading with the odometer at the viewing. The gap should fit the time since the test.
- Match the service invoices. Each invoice shows a mileage. They should fit between the MOT readings.
Our guide on how to read MOT history explains each step in more detail, including what recurring advisories mean.
When a high mileage car is a good buy
A high mileage car is often a sensible choice when:
- the service history is complete, with invoices, and services were done on time
- the big mileage-driven jobs, such as the cambelt or clutch, have been done recently, with invoices
- the MOT history shows a steady mileage climb and few repeat advisories
- the use was mostly long journeys, and the seller's story fits the evidence
- the price reflects the mileage and what is due next
Walk away, or pay much less, when the history has gaps, the mileage pattern does not add up, or big jobs are due with no budget for them. A long list of short ownerships can be another reason to look closer. See our guide to previous owners.
Factor it into the price
Use the evidence when you agree a price. A cambelt that is due, worn tyres or a clutch that bites high are costs you will pay soon, and they are fair reasons to offer less. Our guide on how to negotiate the price shows how to turn them into a first offer, a target and a maximum. Then see the car and ask a mechanic before you pay.
Frequently asked questions
Is 100,000 miles too much for a used car?
Not by itself. What matters is how the miles were driven, whether the services and big jobs were done on time, and whether the price reflects what is due next. Check the service invoices and the MOT history.
Are high mileage cars cheaper to buy?
Usually, yes. Higher mileage brings mileage-driven repairs closer, so the market prices it in. The car is good value only if the discount covers the work you will need to do.
How can I tell if the mileage is genuine?
Compare the odometer with the readings in the GOV.UK MOT history and the mileages on the service invoices. They should all climb steadily. A reading lower than an earlier one needs a documented explanation.
Is motorway mileage better than town mileage?
Generally, steady motorway miles cause less wear per mile on the clutch, brakes and suspension than short town trips, and the engine runs at its normal temperature. Ask how the car was used and check the story against the service record.