Buying a used electric car: checks before you pay

A used electric car is a simpler machine than a petrol car, but the one expensive part, the traction battery, is the part you cannot see and the MOT does not measure. So the order of checks changes. Before you pay, get a battery health reading in writing, read the battery warranty terms, make sure the charging cables are in the boot, and be honest about where you will charge it. Then check the tyres, brakes and paperwork as you would on any car.

The short version: buy the battery first and the car second.

Start with where you will charge

Decide this before you look at cars. An electric car is cheap and easy to live with if you can charge it at home overnight. It is harder work if you rely on public chargers, and the running costs are usually higher.

Ask yourself three questions:

• Do you have off-street parking where a charger can be fitted?
• If you rent or live in a flat, will the landlord or freeholder agree to an installation?
• If you have only on-street parking, does your council allow cross-pavement charging solutions?

At the time of writing, GOV.UK lists two household grants of up to £500 each towards a chargepoint, one for renters and flat owners with private off-street parking and one for homes with only on-street parking that fit a cross-pavement solution. Both are listed as running until 31 March 2027. Check the current terms on GOV.UK before you rely on them. Our guide to charging an electric car at home covers chargers, cables and costs.

Battery health: the check that matters most

The battery's state of health is its usable capacity today compared with when it was new. A lower figure means less range from a full charge. It is the single biggest difference between two otherwise similar used electric cars.

Ask the seller for a battery health report that shows the date, the mileage and the state of health figure. A franchised dealer can usually produce one from the car's diagnostics, and independent battery tests exist. If the seller has nothing, ask why, and ask whether they will let you arrange a test before you commit.

What we would want to see:

• A dated report, not a verbal "the battery is fine".
• A figure that matches the range you see on the dash when the car is charged to full.
• No battery warning lights or messages on the dashboard.

Our guide to used EV battery health explains how state of health is measured and what affects it.

The battery warranty

Many electric cars come with a separate battery warranty, limited by years and by miles, and often with a capacity threshold below which you can claim. A manufacturer warranty usually stays with the car when it is sold, but there can be conditions such as servicing or software updates.

Read the start date from the first registration date on the V5C, then work out how much of the warranty is left in both years and miles. Ask to see the terms in the handbook or on the manufacturer's site, not a summary from the advert. Our guide to electric car battery warranties explains what to look for.

Charging ports and cables

Electric cars often come with one or two cables: a three-pin "granny" cable for a household socket and a Type 2 cable for public and home chargers. These are not cheap to replace, so check what is included before you agree a price.

At the viewing:

1. Open the charging flap and look at the ports. Pins should be clean and straight, with no burn marks or cracks.
2. Check the cables for cuts, kinks and damaged plugs.
3. Plug the car into a charger if you can, and watch it start charging.
4. If the car has a rapid charging port, ask when it was last rapid charged and whether it worked.

If a cable is missing, ask for it to be supplied, or take its cost off the price.

Range on the test drive

The range figure on the dash is an estimate based on recent driving. It is not a measure of battery health on its own. Ask the seller to charge the car to full before you arrive, note the range and the state of charge, and watch how both fall on a mixed drive.

Cold weather and heating cut range, so a winter test drive will show less than a summer one. Our guide to electric car range in winter explains why the lab figure is higher than what drivers see on the road.

Tyres, brakes and suspension

Electric cars are usually heavier than petrol cars of a similar size and deliver strong torque from a standstill. That can wear tyres faster. Check the tread across the full width of each tyre, and look for uneven wear that suggests alignment problems.

They also slow down mostly by regenerative braking, so the friction brakes are used less. Brake discs that see little use can corrode. Look at the discs through the wheels, and brake firmly once on the test drive from moderate speed on a clear road. Pulling to one side or vibration is worth asking about.

The MOT tests brakes, tyres and suspension on an electric car like on any other car, but there is no emissions test, and the traction battery gets a visual check at most, where it can be seen, not a test of its capacity or health. Our guide to the MOT for electric cars covers what is tested. You can also see how the model fares at the MOT on our MOT fail rate pages.

Software and recalls

Electric cars depend on software for charging, battery management and driver displays. Ask whether software updates have been applied, and whether any were done at a dealer. Ask too whether any recall work is outstanding. A dealer for the make can tell you what has been done against the car's VIN.

Tax since April 2025

Electric cars have paid vehicle tax since 1 April 2025. For the 2026/27 tax year, an electric car registered from 1 April 2017 pays the standard rate of £200 for 12 months. An electric car registered from 1 April 2025 with a list price over £50,000 also pays the expensive car supplement of £440 a year for 5 years from its second tax payment. Older electric cars registered from 1 March 2001 to 31 March 2017 pay the band A rate of £20.

Our guide to electric car tax has the full table, and the car tax calculator works out the figure from the V5C details.

Paperwork and your rights

The usual checks still apply. Match the VIN on the car with the V5C, check the keeper details, and run a vehicle history check for finance, write-off and theft records. If you buy from a dealer, the Consumer Rights Act 2015 says the car must be of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose and as described. A private seller must describe the car accurately, but your rights are narrower. GOV.UK's guide to buying a used vehicle covers the basics.

If something does not add up, see the car and ask a mechanic who knows electric cars before you pay.

Frequently asked questions

Is it worth buying a used electric car?

It can be, if you can charge at home and the battery checks out. The battery is the expensive part, so a dated state of health report and some warranty left make a used electric car far easier to judge.

What should I ask when buying a used electric car?

Ask for a battery health report with the date and mileage, how much battery warranty is left, which charging cables are included, whether software updates and recall work have been done, and how the car has usually been charged.

Does the MOT check an electric car's battery?

Not its capacity or health. Where the traction battery can be seen, the tester checks it visually, for example for leaks or poor security, but nothing measures how much charge it holds. A car can pass with a battery that holds less charge than when new.

Do used electric cars pay road tax?

Yes. Since 1 April 2025 electric cars pay vehicle tax. In 2026/27 most pay the standard rate of £200 a year.